Friday, June 27, 2014

Chilling in a City of Spice

This past weekend we went and saw the site of the massive 2008 earthquake in Beichuan, China which killed tens of thousands of people, an unimaginable death toll. Going to the site of the earthquake made it far more than a statistic. I saw collapsed buildings and motorbikes under buildings, perfectly preserved as if it had happened yesterday. I think that it's very interesting that China chose to commemorate the site in that way. Beichuan is primarily made up of the Chang minority group, and residents were all relocated permanently after the earthquake. I'm interested in learning more about China's minority groups, but my general impression is that the minority groups remain fairly segregated in society. For example, I passed by a university especially for minority students today in Chengdu.
The commemorative museum, which we saw after the earthquake site, was that it was full of propaganda. The plaque at the front of the museum made sure to credit the government for saving the people of Beichuan rather than the heroic acts of the peoples themselves.

One thing that I've been thinking about is the stereotype that Chinese people are extremely hard working. I've always believed that hard work is an inherent part of Chinese culture and that college students must be really stressed out here, probably because of my hard-working and brilliant Chinese-American friends.   But when I asked a professor here about the main differences that she observed between Sichuan University and the U.S. university where she did her master's, she said: “I think that what I noticed is that American students work really hard in college. Probably harder than they do here at Sichuan University.”  I found that really surprising. That isn't to say that I haven't found ridiculously hard working people here. I met a student here who, in order to do a double major, took courses in law (his second major) on the weekends.   In China high school seems to be more stressful than college as well, since preparation for the Gaokao (college entrance exam) is so intense.   And of course in any country, there will be people who work hard and people who aren't.   So I think that's my conclusion, is that I should quit making generalizations.

I'm also in a famously “chill” city. It's like, the California of China or something. Around mid-day, everyone breaks and takes a nap, either going home or sleeping at the nearest convenient location. Even bankers take such “siestas”... a friend told me that everyone goes to their office after lunch and naps on the couch! (American financial sector: please take note.) I've seen people napping in Renmin gongyuan ("People's park"), on parked motorbikes (!), in their cars, and in restaurants. We also have a siesta built into our class schedule, since we have a loong 2.5 hour break between morning and afternoon classes.

Local Chengduren (Chengdu residents) like to say that people prioritize happiness over ambition here. There are parks with teahouses in them, where one can sit for hours playing mahjong. Mahjong, teahouses, and food. The emphasis on food (see blog post 2) is great. Not only is the food delicious, but people take time to eat it too, rather than grabbing food on the go. My latest obsession is something called “mao cai,” which is a dish where you can choose your own assortment of tofu, vegetables, and meat, and then they cook it up for you in a really spicy soup.


This weekend I'm off to an archeological museum, an opening ceremony for the international students, and the panda reserve! I can't believe that somehow between chatting with my awesome Chinese friends and eating food, I'm already more than halfway done with my program...    

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